I think this week in Tuscany (June 2023) will forever be one of our favourite travels. The perfect balance of history, art and peaceful rustic charm, a little bit of everything to provide a feast for our souls to return home inspired and relaxed. When booking accomodation, we look for character and charm above modernity, places that encapsulate the feel of the local area. The beauty of this trip was the short distances between our chosen locations so there was just enough driving to admire and appreciate the beautiful Tuscan landscape without it becoming arduous.
DAYS ONE & TWO: FLORENCE
From the enchanting beauty of Botticelli’s ‘Primavera’ to the delightful charm of a beachfront store on Isla d’Elba, there is an absolute abundance of sights and experiences waiting to be explored in between. It’s almost like entering into a captivating story that leaves you longing for more. In fact, this could very well be considered as just the beginning, as there is still so much left to discover on a second trip. Get ready for an unforgettable adventure that will leave you yearning for even more.
Stepping onto the cobbled streets of Florence, Italy, is like entering a living museum where every corner whispers tales of artistic genius and historical grandeur. My first encounter with this enchanting city left an indelible mark on my heart, a kaleidoscope of experiences that seamlessly blended the historical charm with the latest in culinary talent.
The city’s skyline, dominated by the iconic dome of the Florence Cathedral, known as Il Duomo, was a breathtaking sight. Standing in Piazza del Duomo, the colossal structure commanded attention, its intricate details and sheer magnificence invoking a sense of awe.
Florence, however, is not just a feast for the eyes but also pure joy for art enthusiasts. The Uffizi Gallery, home to an extensive collection of Renaissance masterpieces, transported me through time. From Botticelli’s ‘Primavera’ and ‘The Birth of Venus’ to Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Annunciation,’ each stroke of the brush echoed the city’s rich cultural legacy.
Our accommodation for two nights in Florence was in a cosy ‘attic’ room at Loggiato Dei Serviti with a spectacular view over the rooftops towards Il Duomo. Florence is expensive and knowing we would be exploring much of the time, a smaller room in a central location was perfect. The entrance to this hotel turned out to be in a quiet piazza featured in one of my favoutite films ‘A Room with a View’. The interior of the hotel was superbly ancient with carved stone staircases, aged wooden floors and delightful pieces of antique furniture. The staff could not have made us feel more welcome and two minutes walk from Il Duomo and all the places you want to visit.
One cannot truly experience Florence without savoring its culinary delights. With only two nights in Florence we made sure to book well in advance and secure a table at the highly acclaimed Nugolo . Using ‘seasonal ingredients to create contemporary-style dishes with an imaginative twist’, Nugolo is tucked away in a small street in central Florence and did not disappoint. Sumptuous delicacies and wine pairings wrapped in a relaxed and cosy vibe, this is a real treat for food lovers.
DAY THREE: MONTEPULCIANO
Nestled atop a rolling Tuscan hill, Montepulciano emerges like a medieval gem, its Renaissance architecture and vine-covered landscapes painting an enchanting picture of Italian allure. Ascending the narrow, cobbled streets of this timeless town, I found myself immersed in a living canvas that seamlessly blends history, culture, and the rich, robust flavors of the region.
Montepulciano, a town with roots dating back to the Etruscans, unfolds like an open-air museum. The Palazzo Comunale, a majestic town hall stands proudly in the central Piazza Grande. Its clock tower offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, inviting visitors to step back in time and savour the architectural grandeur of centuries past. The imposing Fortezza Medicea has an ancient history and its small but beautiful gardens are a delight with far reaching views.
Beyond its historical treasures, Montepulciano is renowned for its exceptional wines. The vineyards that drape the hillsides contribute to the town’s reputation as a wine lover’s haven. Each sip is testament to the terroir and centuries-old winemaking traditions that define this corner of Tuscany.
Wandering through Montepulciano is like stepping into a time capsule. The Via di Gracciano nel Corso, the main street, is lined with charming boutiques, artisanal shops and inviting cafes. We meandered through hidden alleys and stumbled upon quaint courtyards, where the echoes of history resonated through weathered stone walls. The town’s commitment to preserving its heritage is evident, creating an atmosphere that transports visitors to a bygone era.
Montepulciano’s culinary scene is a symphony of flavors that complements its renowned wines. We dined in a family-run trattoria, indulging in the local specialties, from pici pasta coated in rich ragù to pecorino cheese aged to perfection and of course, tartufo, local truffles. Each dish, many acelebrated the region’s agricultural bounty, creating a culinary experience that mirrored the authenticity and warmth of the town itself.
For a breathtaking finale to a day filled with incredible scenery, we enjoyed an aperitivo in a small bar, aptly named Romantico, where we watched the sun make it’s slow decent to the horizon. From this vantage point, the undulating Tuscan landscape stretched out before us like a patchwork quilt of vineyards and olive groves. As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a warm glow on the terracotta rooftops, we reveled in the sheer beauty of a town that effortlessly marries the past with the present. From there we dined late and splendidly at Ristorante ai 4 Venti, off the Piazza Grande.
Montepulciano, with its medieval allure, exceptional wines, and captivating history, is a testament to the timeless enchantment that Tuscany offers.
For our one night in Montepulciano, we stayed at the breathtaking Palazzo Carletti, occupying one floor of an 18th century noble palace. With original paintings and frescos in the main room and suites, this felt like true Italian luxury.
DAY FOUR: SIENA
In the heart of Tuscany, where undulating hills and cypress trees create a poetic landscape, lies the enchanting city of Siena. Stepping onto the historic Piazza del Campo, you instantly feel the allure of this medieval masterpiece, where time seems to stand still amidst Gothic architecture, cobblestone streets, and a palpable sense of heritage.
Piazza del Campo: The pulsating heart of Siena is undoubtedly the Piazza del Campo. This expansive shell-shaped square is not just a physical space but a living testament to centuries of history and communal life. Towering above is the Torre del Mangia, offering panoramic views of the city and surrounding countryside. Sit in the warm embrace of the Campo, where locals and visitors converge, traders, tourists and nuns alike, sipping espresso and indulging in the Sienese life. We dined in the Piazza in one of the many resaturants, it was busy but a chance to savour the atmosphere in bustling abundance as the sun retired, watching the swallows in their evening dance.
Pali – A Time-Honored Tradition: Siena’s spirit comes alive during the Palio, a horse race that has been held in the Piazza del Campo since the 17th century. On July 2nd and August 16th (no matter which day of the week) the entire city buzzes with excitement as neighbourhoods, or contrade, compete for glory. I imagine the air, thick with anticipation and the thundering hooves echo through the medieval streets, creating an electrifying atmosphere that showcases the unyielding passion of the Sienese people for their traditions.
Siena’s architecture is a harmonious blend of Gothic grandeur and understated elegance. The Siena Cathedral, or Duomo di Siena, is a captivating masterpiece with its intricate facade and stunning interior. The Piccolomini Library within is a treasure trove of Renaissance art, transporting visitors to an era of opulence and artistic brilliance. Take a stroll through the narrow streets to discover hidden gems like the Basilica of San Domenico and the charming Palazzo Chigi-Saracini, each revealing a chapter of Siena’s rich tapestry.
Culinary Odyssey Siena is a culinary haven, where traditional flavors take center stage. Indulge in rustic dishes like pappa al pomodoro, a hearty bread and tomato soup, and ribollita, a Tuscan vegetable and bread stew. Sienese sweets, such as ricciarelli and panforte, beckon from the windows of local pastry shops, providing a delightful conclusion to every meal.
Artistic Enclaves Siena’s artistic legacy extends beyond its cathedrals and palaces. The Civic Museum, housed in the Palazzo Pubblico showcases masterpieces by Sienese artists including works by Ambrogio Lorenzetti and Simone Martini. Every corner of the city seems to breathe art, inviting exploration and appreciation for the creative spirit that has flourished here for centuries.
As the sun dips below the rolling hills, casting a warm glow on the terracotta rooftops, you find yourself captivated by Siena’s timeless charm. The city’s ability to preserve its medieval character while embracing the present is nothing short of magical. Siena is not just a destination; it’s an immersive journey through history, culture, and the indomitable spirit of a city that has stood the test of time.
In Siena, Tuscany’s timeless jewel, we discovered a small B&B where every stone seems to whisper tales of a bygone era. The BnB Paolina, we stayed in the King Room, gave the most spectacular views across the Tuscan lanscape. Our hosts were both welcoming and accomodating, the enormous room full of ructic splendour.
Nestled on a hilltop in the heart of Tuscany, we briefly visited Volterra, a hidden gem that whispers tales of Etruscan and Roman legacies. As you approach this ancient town on winding roads, its medieval silhouette emerges, surrounded by a landscape of olive groves and rolling vineyards.
The town’s elevated position rewards visitors with breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding Tuscan landscape. Stand at the panoramic viewpoint near the Roman Theater, the golden hues of the countryside stretching out before you, creating a visual symphony that encapsulates the quintessential beauty of Tuscany.
DAYS FIVE & SIX: ISOLA D’ELBA
Nestled like a precious jewel in the Tyrrhenian Sea, Isola d’Elba emerges as Tuscany’s best-kept secret, beckoning travelers with its crystal-clear waters, rugged landscapes, and a tapestry of history that unfolds across charming towns. As the ferry approaches the island, the silhouette of Elba against the horizon whispers journey’s of exploration and discovery in this Mediterranean paradise.
The first glimpse of Elba’s coastline is a revelation – a harmonious blend of turquoise waters, hidden coves, and golden beaches. The island’s diverse shoreline caters to every taste, from the secluded tranquility of Sansone Beach to the lively buzz of Marina di Campo.
Napoleonic Legacy: Elba carries the historical imprint of Napoleon Bonaparte’s exile and the island wears this legacy with grace. A visit to Napoleon’s residences, including the Palazzina dei Mulini and Villa San Martino, offers a glimpse into the life of the exiled emperor. The panoramic views from these locations provide a reminder that even in exile, Elba’s beauty served as an inescapable allure.
Portoferraio: Portoferraio, the island’s main town, unfolds like a medieval painting against the backdrop of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Narrow streets wind their way through pastel-colored buildings, leading to the imposing Medici Fortress that guards the harbour. The historic heart of Portoferraio invites exploration, with hidden gems like the Church of San Cristoforo and the Linguella Tower.
Beyond the coastal splendors, Elba boasts a diverse interior that invites exploration. Hiking trails crisscross the island, revealing lush forests, panoramic viewpoints, and the rugged peaks of Monte Capanne.
Elba’s underwater world is a treasure trove for diving enthusiasts. Crystal-clear waters reveal vibrant marine life, ancient shipwrecks, and hidden caves. Diving schools dot the coastline, offering a chance for both beginners and experienced divers to explore the mesmerising depths of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
As the sun begins its descent, Elba transforms into a canvas of warm hues. Sunset over the Gulf of Biodola is a moment of serenity, whether enjoyed from a beachside café or the heights of Monte Capanne. The fading light casts a golden glow on the island, leaving an indelible impression of its timeless beauty.
On our second night we dined on incredible fresh seafood and drank local Vermintino on the beachfront at Il Faro. An unforgettable evening watching the sun set over the bay.
After the bustle of tourist hotspots over the previous few days, two nights on Elba with its laid back, rustic charm felt like paradise. We stayed at Residenza Santanna Del Volterraio, a 20 minute drove from Portoferraio, a small resort a five minute walk from a small and blissfully quiet beach where we dozed and swam in the crystal waters. The divine little terrace was a slice of tranquility where we dined simply one evening with local cured meats and cheeses and hand made bread from the local beachfront shop.
DAY SEVEN: SAN GIMIGNANO
Nestled in the heart of Tuscany, San Gimignano stands as a captivating testament to medieval splendor, beckoning travelers with its iconic skyline of towers, cobbled streets, and an atmosphere steeped in centuries of history. As you entered the gates of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, you feel like you have stepped into a living postcard, where the essence of Tuscany’s past unfolded against a backdrop of rolling hills and vineyards.
The Towers of San Gimignano: San Gimignano’s skyline is a striking panorama of medieval towers that pierce the heavens, offering a glimpse into the town’s storied past. These lofty structures, once symbols of wealth and power, create an unforgettable silhouette against the Tuscan sky. Climbing to the top of one of these towers, such as the Torre Grossa, rewards visitors with breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside.
Piazza della Cisterna: The Heart of San Gimignano: At the heart of the town lies the Piazza della Cisterna, a picturesque square surrounded by well-preserved medieval buildings. The cistern at its center dates back to the 13th century, and the square bustles with life, as locals and visitors alike gather to enjoy gelato, sip espresso, and soak in the timeless ambiance. The medieval well in the center of the piazza is a focal point, connecting the past and present.
San Gimignano’s historic streets are lined with artisan workshops, galleries, and boutiques. Explore the Museo Civico, which houses a rich collection of artworks, including masterpieces by artists such as Benozzo Gozzoli and Filippino Lippi. The Duomo di San Gimignano, with its exquisite frescoes, invites contemplation showcasing the artistic legacy that flourished within the town’s walls.
The charm of San Gimignano lies in its ability to transport visitors back in time. The medieval architecture, preserved in its original form, creates an immersive experience as you stroll through narrow streets lined with stone buildings. Discover hidden courtyards, charming squares, and the inviting warmth of family-run trattorias, each offering a glimpse into the town’s enduring spirit.
San Gimignano is renowned for its local white wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The vineyards surrounding the town produce this crisp and flavourful wine, which has earned the distinction of being the first Italian wine to receive DOC status. Tasting rooms and cellars invite visitors to savor this regional specialty while enjoying the panoramic views of the Tuscan landscape.
Events and Festivals: Throughout the year, San Gimignano comes alive with vibrant events and festivals that celebrate its rich cultural heritage. The medieval festival, held annually in June, transforms the town into a lively spectacle of costumes, music, and historical reenactments. This event, along with other local celebrations, provides a unique opportunity to witness San Gimignano in the full glory of its medieval charm.
For our final night in Tuscany we stayed at Hotel Bel Soggiono. The breathtaking view from our small balcony over the rolling Tuscan hills was truly captivating both in sunrise and during a storm that we watched while sharing a bottle of local wine. We dined in the hotel restaurant, a truy memorable meal bursting with tuscan flavours.
What a way to end our week in Tuscany. San Gimignano, with its medieval towers and enchanting ambiance, is a destination that invites travellers to step back in time and savour the unparalleled charm of Tuscany’s past. Each cobblestone street, historic tower, and welcoming piazza tell a story, weaving a tapestry of history and beauty that lingers in the heart long after leaving this medieval gem. We can’t wait to return to Tuscany and explore more of what this entrancing beauty has to offer.
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